Changing from automatic to manual transmission




















It stops the pad from sliding on the pedal. The nature of the vintage "X" bodies Novas as "the car for all people" proved to be more than influential in the transmission department. Because the basic vehicles were seen as anything from pedestrian econo-sedans to all-out racers, the availability of transmissions was prolific, to say the least. And the same actually applied to the "F" bodied Camaro. Everything from the Powerglide to race-inspired "rock crusher" Muncies occupied the space under the floorboards.

Because of this, physically swapping gearboxes in a Nova or a Camaro is an easy task. Many non-stock combinations are possible. Examples include Powerglides behind big blocks, Muncies behind straight sixes, Turbo-hydro-backed V6s and a host of others. It was almost like Chevrolet engineers envisioned the whole swapping scheme: Chevy included a number of different cross members and a series of holes drilled into the front subframe just for this purpose.

The basic cross members can be broken down into three groups: the Turbohydramatic examples, non-TH examples and big block versions. The good news is these pieces are readily available from the aftermarket. And so are all of the other transmission cross members. In the end, you have to be sure to use the correct cross member for the appropriate transmission. In addition, the basic transmission mount affectionately referred to as the "mounting" in original GM parts catalogs is similar for all examples.

Aftermarket solid versions are available, but it has been our experience that these pieces are best left to the drag race-only crowd. Coupled with solid motor mounts, these parts have a tendency to bind the entire powertrain together too tightly. The result is often broken mount ears on four speed cases or completely fractured case assemblies on automatics. Stick with the OE-style rubber hardware. Your transmission will be much happier, and the restoration aftermarket has a full complement of replacement transmission mountings.

As you can see, swapping to a stick in a vintage car is generally a straightforward operation. You just have to know what fits what. For a closer look, see the accompanying photos. The pointer shows the clip that must be removed prior to sliding the pedal pin out of the pedal mount.

Once removed, you can reinstall the stick shift pedals reverse order. This is a reproduction big block four-speed transmission cross member for a first-generation Camaro or a third-generation Nova. In the case of a big block, the engine and transmission are actually offset slightly to gain clearance. Bolt in the new clutch and brake pedal assembly under the dash. Bolt on the new brake light switch and connect the electrical connector. Raise and support the vehicle on four jack stands.

Remove the gear shift cable or linkage from the transmission by removing the nut on the linkage and pulling the gear shift lever off. Save the gear shift lever for later installation. Remove all electrical connectors from the transmission. Remove the bolts in the drive shaft yoke using a wrench. Remove the drive shaft. Place the floor jack under the transmission pan and remove the bolts in the cross member and transmission mount using the ratchet and socket.

Lift the transmission and remove the crossmember. Lower the transmission and remove the transmission cooler lines with a wrench. Remove the bolts in the bellhousing with a ratchet and socket and remove the transmission. Remove the flexplate using the ratchet and a socket. Install the new flywheel and tighten the bolts. Install the new clutch kit using the alignment tool that comes with the kit.

Tighten the bolts securely. Install a new throwout bearing in the new bell housing and bolt up the new bell housing. Bolt the new manual transmission to the bellhousing by inserting the bolts and tightening them with a ratchet and socket.

Plug in all electrical connectors. Install the transmission mount and tighten the bolts with the ratchet and socket. Place the floor jack under the transmission and raise it to install the crossmember. Lower the transmission onto the crossmember and insert the bolts and tighten. Install the driveshaft and bolts and tighten with a wrench. Pass the linkage or cable through the firewall and attach it to the clutch pedal. If it is a hydraulic clutch, attach the master cylinder to the clutch pedal and the firewall.

Bolt the transmission-end of the linkage or cable to the clutch release rod on the transmission. If it is a hydraulic system, attach the slave cylinder to the transmission.

Install the shift lever on the transmission by putting the nut on the shaft end and tightening it with a wrench. With your hand, put the shift lever on the transmission in the neutral position. When it is in neutral the drive shaft can be turned by hand. Remove the top cover plate on the transmission if it is a top loader.

Bolt up the shift lever and cover.



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