Wayne dalton torquemaster spring installation

If for some reason any of this information is missing we recommend sending us an e-mail using the contact us tab. Please include your garage door width, height, thickness, model number and if your door has windows or not. If you can not find your model number please inclose a couple photos of the inside of your garage door to help us quicky get back with the information you need to place your order. Your new spring will come with a new plastic sleeve, new anchor and winding ends already installed which make the installation even easier.

The actual garage door metal tube that the springs slide into is not included and can be reused. We always recommend replacing springs in pairs where applicable due to spring having equal cycle life and the opposite spring will most likely also fail soon leaving your door inoperable. Torqumaster springs you will receive will not always match your old springs due to the switch from an oil tempered spring to a new high tensile strength music wire spring.

That it is why it is very important for you to fill in all the fields on the order for to assure you receive the proper springs for your door. The springs you receive will mostly not match your old spring in length or any many cases the spring end will be made of metal instead of plastic.

These are all improvements Wayne Dalton has made to make your springs last longer. If you have difficulty removing your broken spring from the tube you can use a series of wodden dowel purchased at any hardware store and a hammer to drive out old spring parts that may be lodged in the tube. Make sure the wodden dowels are as close to the spring tube size as possible. Order now to get your new Wayne Dalton garage door springs to get your door up and running in no time.

Garage Door Balance Weight. This is a required field. Garage Door Width. Garage Door Height. Single or Double Spring System. Right or Left Spring. If a picture's worth a thousand words, these instructions should be sufficient for do-it-yourselfers.

Due to the Coronavirus with the Delta and Omicron varations, we have changed our local order pickup policy at our West Chicago location. To pick up an order you will need to order first. The quickest way to do this is through our online shopping cart. There you can select the local pickup option. Or, you can call for assistance and to place your order.

When ready, we will call you and your parts will be available for pickup in the front entrance on the north side of the building. Longer items will be picked up on the south side loading dock. Please do not arrive until you have been notified that your order is ready.

When picking up parts please wear a mask. If you don't bring one we'll gladly provide one. Please honor the six foot social distancing rule to protect yourself and our employees. Thank you for your patience and understanding as we all navigate this challenge together.

In the same article you will also find documentation and an answer to the question: "Is a garage door repair company a life sustaining business?

If you need the larger inside diameter springs with or without cones, there will be a two month delay on these as well. If you are willing to wait two months for your springs, please note that in the comment section of your order. We deeply regret the hardships this will create for many of our customers.

Unit 5 West Chicago, IL Send E-Mail. Since Get it right the first time! Buy Springs. Sometimes the door is opened after a spring breaks. Exercise caution! Close the garage door before disengaging the opener.

Often you will need to remove a clevis pin and a cotter pin. Unplug the opener. This will keep the opener from running if somebody accidentally tries to open the door while you are working. It also allows you to confirm that you have a broken spring. Single car doors usually have only one spring; when the spring breaks both cables come loose. On double car doors the door becomes heavy when a spring breaks, and it's hard to lift.

If you put a scale under the door you will get a reading of over 50 pounds if one of the springs is broken. It is now time to unwind the unbroken spring. Pull down on the winding shaft, push down on the pawl, and then raise the ratchet wrench almost to the header and release the pawl.

Repeat the process until the spring unwinds. If the winding shaft turns freely, the spring on this side is broken. After unwinding the spring, proceed to step 9 below. If you have the older original TorqueMaster springs, you need to unwind the gear that holds the tension in the torsion springs. First, loosen the lock nut. Turn the socket wrench in front counter clockwise one quarter turn.

Unwind by turning the bolt head counterclockwise. If this spring is not broken, you will be unwinding the spring. If the spring is broken, you will just be resetting the gearbox. As you run the drill, the "0" on the counter assembly should slowly approach the tick mark on the end bracket.

Stop when the "0" lines up with the mark on the end bracket. If the spring is not broken, it should now be unwound. If you have a second TorqueMaster spring inside your torque tube, you will need to unwind it as well. Loosen the lock nut a quarter turn as you did on the right side. Unwind the right spring by turning the bolt head counterclockwise as you did on the right side.

As you unwind the spring the "0" on the counter wheel should move toward the tick mark. If you only have one spring, you will not have the gearbox on the left side. When there is no longer any spring tension, the cables will loosen. Remove this tension before proceeding. Proceed to step Turn the head of the screw counterclockwise. The bottom of the winder is bolted to the flag angle. Remove the nut and carriage bolt.

Notice the hook on the bottom of the winder bracket. Position the bracket so the hook can slide out of the hole, pull the bracket to the right, lift the torsion tube and slide the winder off the winder cone. Go to the other side of the door, unwind the spring and remove the winder bracket following the same procedure. Proceed to step 29 below. If you have the older TorqueMaster system, you can now disassemble the gearboxes.

Carefully pry the counter gear off the end bracket with a screwdriver. Remove the counter gear from the shaft. Inspect the counter gear and wheel. If they are damaged you can insert rolled paper into the end of the assembly. You'll see how to do this in later steps.

Remove the lag screws that hold the end bracket to the garage header. Turn the heads of the screws counterclockwise. You can use wrenches or sockets to remove these screws - the best tool depends on the space you have and your selection of tools.

Remove the Phillips-head screw that secures the end bracket. This screw is often missing because the original installer forgot to install it. As long as the other two lag screws are secure, the door should work fine if these screws are missing. You may need to use a punch, awl, or nail to remove the screw once it is loose. Lift the assembly off the top of the flag bracket. You are now ready to disassemble the right end of the torque tube. Pry the end bracket off of the winding cone.

The end bracket encases the drive gear. Notice also the end of the black winding cone sticking out through the bearing of the cable drum. Check the drive gear for stripped teeth. These parts are no longer made. If your gear or gear box is damaged, you will need to order the new style TorqueMaster Plus springs and a conversion kit.

Remove the cable drum from the shaft. You probably will have to twist the drum on the torque tube or tap it gently with a hammer to remove the drum from the tube. If the spring is broken, pull the end portion of the spring out of the tube.

Wayne Dalton uses this rod as a spacer to gap the springs. You will remove the rest of the spring later. Slide the tube a few inches to the left so that it rests on the angle supporting the horizontal track. Move to the left side of the garage door. If you have a double-spring assembly, you will now disassemble the left side.

Remove the two lag screws that secure the end bracket to the header. Remove the screw as well. Remove the counter assembly, the counter gear, the end bracket, and the drive gear.

Twist the cable drum to remove it from the tube. Tap the drum gently with a hammer if necessary. If this spring is broken, remove the end portion from the tube. Otherwise, leave the spring in the tube. Move to the center bracket. Bend the top of the bracket away from the bushing with a vise grip. Slide the shaft to one side of the door. This will help you to balance the tube when you remove it.

Raise the torque tube so that the bushing comes out of the center support bracket. Lower the tube to the floor. Watch out for vehicles. Assume that the weight distribution of the tube may change at any moment - part of the broken spring may slide to the other end of the tube. Note: if you are only replacing the center support bracket, remove the black ring from the tube pictured in step 33 and slide on the new ring and bracket.

Next, remove the two screws that secure the bracket to the jamb shown in step Third, replace the instructions in steps with this: Secure the bracket to the jamb with the two screws removed earlier. TorqueMaster springs have an outer liner to prevent the springs from rattling in the torsion tube as the garage door operates.

You will need to remove the liner before the spring will slide out. There will likely be some friction between the plastic sleeve and the tube, particularly in cold weather.

The remainder of the broken spring should slide out of this side of the tube as well. If the other end of the spring is stuck inside the tube, knock it loose with a hammer and a long rod. A broomstick or a length of conduit will usually work. Often it is easier to just allow the spring slide out the other end.

Remove the sleeve in the other end of the tube. Dried grease often bonds the end of the liner to the inside of the tube.

You may need to use needle nose pliers to grip and pull the sleeve. If the liner strips when pulling on it, grip the end of the liner with the pliers and turn the pliers around two or three times. This will break the bond between the liner and the torsion tube. You can also insert a hacksaw blade or a coat hanger between the liner and tube to break the bond. You can also heat the end of the tube to loosen the liner.

After removing both springs and the plastic liners look through one end of the tube to make certain all the parts are removed and the tube is completely empty. Compare your new TorqueMaster spring with your old spring. This door had springs with black plastic cones; the replacement spring has steel cones.