Installing ornamental moulding

First, I measured the length and width of the wall and played around with the calculations and number of squares until the pattern was even. Since we knew we were using 5. For example, in my calculations above, six vertical slats, at 5. Likewise, moving vertically, I figured out that we could use 5 boards at 5.

That meant our sections would be Wall moulding comes in 8-foot and foot lengths. While many most? You might need to make a little notch to fit the molding against your other trim work, as my husband did in the lower corners of our wall. Using a caulking gun makes this job much easier! If necessary, smooth lightly with your fingertip.

Wipe up any excess at the corners. Also make sure the tip of your caulk gun is pointing at the correct angle toward the wall learned this the hard way. Made of real wood, the U-shaped beams come with mounting plates and hardware needed for the installation. Measure, cut-to-size, affix the mounting plate and then install the beam to the plate.

Those are the only steps you need to add architectural style to any room. At Ornamental Moulding and Millwork, we also offer black wrought iron decorative brackets to match the height and width of different beam sizes. This helps create an even more rustic look on the ceiling. Featuring 5x5 and 5x3 Beams with Metal Brackets. The shelf can be used as both a stand-alone floating shelf and as a fireplace mantel.

The Ambrosia Maple wood, with its distinctive graining, brings designer appeal into your home. The mantel shelves come in two versions: with and without black wrought iron decorative trim. The shelves are available in three, four, five and six-foot lengths. Once they've been fit into place, nail the molding into the studs, alternating between the top and bottom of the molding. Make sure not to get too close to any edges, as this can cause cracking.

Add twice the thickness of molding plus an inch or two and cut a piece of molding to this length. Dry-fit the molding to the wall and mark the back of the molding as close as you can get to the corner. This may be a more helpful measurement than the one you took.

Start with whatever measurement is longer, to be safe. With outside corner molding, you should also nail through the end of one piece into the other, if it is thick enough. Do your math. Figure out what the measures of the angles will have to be for the pieces. If you are using three pieces of molding to make the turn, you'll usually need to be cutting those at Measure, cut, and roughly place the two side pieces.

Cut your side pieces with Dry fit the pieces and mark where they end on the wall with a pencil. Measure the distance between them at the base. Measure the distance been them at their base. This will be your measurement for the transition piece. Cut your transition piece. Cut your transition piece with the Err on the side of making the piece to long. You can also cut it down further to get a good fit.

Place your transition piece. Place all of the pieces and glue and nail them as normal. Alternatively, make a regular corner and fill the gap.

If you don't like the look of a transitional piece, you can make a regular corner and simply plaster the gap that's formed. Part 2. Install door molding. Door and window molding is essentially the same as wall molding, it simply places the boards in the other direction. Most of the same instructions apply. For doors, keep in mind that there are a number of ways to do the corners. You can miter them as discussed above, you can use decorative corner pieces, or you can construct a lintel.

All of these options are likely easier than the mitered corners. Make sure there will not be any overlap. Install window molding. Windows are much the same as doors. The main difference for installing molding on windows is that you must be careful of the window frame.

Do not entirely overlap the window frame and make sure you are only hammering molding into the studs around the window. Install base trim. Doing base trim, or the molding at floor level, is mostly the same as installing it anywhere else on a wall. Just be sure to use thin blocks or skims to account for carpeting. You don't want to place the molding directly at the subfloor. Also, don't forget about shoe molding. It is installed exactly the same as wall molding and can make your floor look much cleaner and professional.

Install chair or picture rails. Chair and picture rails are the same as wall molding. Use MDF instead of plywood for chair and picture rails since it's cheaper and smoother. Install shadow boxes. Shadow boxes are built much like picture frames.

Make sure to lay everything out in pencil before you cut your pieces, try to make as many as possible the same size to save time, and make sure you hammer them in at the studs to avoid hitting wires or pipes.

For doing odd angles, such as for stairs, just remember the formula we discussed earlier: take the total angle that needs to be accomplished and divide it by 2 for the two pieces making the turn.

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